We got up and had a delicious breakfast. In fact, the Globetrotters Hostel (where we stayed the first two nights, in Dublin), had, by far, the best breakfast of any other hostel we stayed at in Ireland. It was a full Irish breakfast.
When we left Globetrotters, it was still too early to visit any sites, so we walked down Grafton Street, the main shopping thoroughfare in Dublin. Grafton Street ends across the street from the main entrance to St. Stephen's Green, a large park. Here we saw statues in tribute to James Joyce and Lord Ardilaun, who gifted St. Stephen's Green to Dublin and was great-grandson to the founder of Guinness. In this park, there was also a little island paradise in the middle of a lake, gorgeous flowers and fountains, swans, and a "tribute in bronze to W. B. Yeats."

Just off the main path, near the heart of St. Stephen's Green, is a garden set aside specifically for blind patrons, where placards for the plants are in Braille. Unfortunately, is seems little more than a polite afterthought. You'd never know it was there, if you weren't already going that direction, and is steadily falling into disrepair.
After St. Stephen's Green, we walked back up Grafton Street to Trinity College. We decided against taking a formal, guided (money-costing) tour, but we did decide to see the Book of Kells. On display at the library at the college, the Book of Kells, and several other ancient texts, guide visitors through Ireland's written past and demonstrate how the Irish, through their writing, "saved civilization. It was quite fascinating but overpriced at 9 euro.

This page, from Folio 34r, shows the Chi Rho insignia (the "x" and "p"), which are the first two letters of the word "Christ," from the Greek.
After the Trinity College Library, the Tourist Information Centre was finally open. Here, we bought a good road map to guide the rest of our journey and we bought a "Heritage Guide," that gave us discounts (usually "2 for the price of 1") on admissions to many sites around the country.
Next, we made our way west and walked through the courtyard and gardens at Dublin Castle--we opted not to take the tour because it is also pricey and all the tours were filled up for the next couple of hours. There was a lot to see without going in, though. For some reason, there were sand sculptures in the middle of courtyard. There is also a statue of lady justice that stands looking in toward the courtyard, at the main building of the castle. (Sidebar: Historically, the British used Dublin Castle for government business and there is an old saying referring to the positioning of the statue of justice: "There she stand, above her station, with her face to the palace and her arse to the nation.") Standing off to the side of the main building is a 13th century Norman tower.

Behind these lies the Dubhlinn Garden, the Carriage House, and the Chester Beatty Library. There is an interesting footpath winding through the middle of the gardens.
Next we took a self-guided tour of Christ Church Cathedral. Viking Dublin's first cathedral, built in 1030, CCC is full of history and beauty. Strongbow, leader of the Anglo-Normans who captured Dublin in 1170, is buried here. This is also the location of tombs of several other Dublin notables. The stained glass and wood-working are intricate, yet profound. My favorite site at CCC is the crypt. Located below the cathedral, the crypt dates back to the 11th century and has become a museum itself of ancient statues, pillars, monuments, relics, even some stocks and the original foundations of the cathedral (which you can view under glass). CCC was the first site we visited where we were able to use our "2 for the price of 1" admission discount and in doing so we recovered the cost of the discount booklet!
Leaving CCC, we continued west. We walked past the Guinness Storehouse, where you can also take a tour, learn the history of Guinness (which is celebrating its 250th anniversary this year) and sample its wares, but at 15 euros (about $22) a person, this tour was also too pricey for us.

We walked all the way to Kilmainham Gaol (pronounced jail), which, according to Google Maps, is 4.5 km (almost 3 miles) from Trinity College. I LOVED Kilmainham Gaol. It is such an important part of history in Ireland's fight to become a free and independent state.
It was here where 14 leaders of the Easter Uprising were held and executed in early May of 1916. One of these men, Joseph Plunkett, was married to his sweetheart, Grace Gifford (pictured below), in the gaol's chapel, hours before his execution. They were married around midnight, allowed about 10 minutes together as a married couple (supervised, of course), and then Grace was escorted to the front door and was assumed to have gone home but, as legend has it, she circled back and lingered around the front door, just on the other side of the wall from where Joseph was executed, in the wee hours of May 4th, 1916.
All but one of the revolutionaries were executed at the east end of the yard. James Connolly was executed at the west end of the yard, near the gate. He had been shot in the leg early on in the fighting and spend most of the uprising in hospital. However, the authorities still wanted to execute him. He was brought into the yard but could only make it into that corner and had to be tied to a chair for them to be able to shoot him. The public was in such an uproar after hearing of such inhumane actions that Connolly was the last leader of the Easter Uprising to be executed.
Another man who paved the way for "home rule" was Charles Stuart Parnell. Since he was such a well-known figure, he was afforded a much larger cell than the others and was also allowed many "creature comforts." Parnell was even allowed a 2 week furlough during his incarceration to attend his nephew's funeral in France. However, shortly after he was release, Parnell fell into disfavor with the public, owing to a scandal involving the fact that he had a mistress.
The cells at the gaol, measuring about 4 or 5 feet wide and about 8 or 10 feet long, were intended to hold one prisoner at a time; there are about 150 cells in all. The men in charge of the gaol routinely kept 2, 3, even 5 people at a time in these cells but in 1850, during the Irish famine, over 9,000 prisoners were held in the gaol over a 12-month period. People were committing crimes on purpose because they knew that they were guaranteed at least one meal a day while under incarceration.
The Victorian Wing of the gaol will look familiar to many. Its oval design allowed guards wide visibility and this feature of the gaol has been repeated in many other prisons and in many movies, as well. On of my favorite features of the gaol are the "one-way peepholes" used in the cells in the Victorian Wing. These peepholes are specifically designed so that guards could see in but prisoners could not see out, which lead to better behavior, since prisoners could never know when a guard was nearby, keeping watch.

After our tour of the gaol, we bussed back east and strolled again through Temple Bar. After finding a jacket for David in a second-hand store, we ate at Cafe Irie. We then headed to Oliver St. John Gogarty's Pub (also in Temple Bar), where we eagerly waited for the Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl to start (another Rick Steves recommendation).
Our hosts, Tricia and Mark, lead us through the history of Traditional Irish music (aka "trad") while we enjoyed drinks at Gogarty's, Ha'Penny Bridge Bar, and Branigan's by the Spire (which was actually quite close to our hostel). Over 2 and a half hours, we learned the difference between a jig (6/8 time, "butt-er-fly") and a reel (4/4 time, "cat-er-pill-er"), a fiddle and a violin (they're the same, depending on whom you ask), and we learned about the various instruments used in trad music. There are only 3 native Irish instruments: the
Clàrsach (pronounced "clairshock"), the
uilleann (pronounced "illin") pipes, and the
bodhrán. The clarsach is the little harp you'll see on the Guinness logo. A real clarsach sits on the knee and has steel strings, rather than the larger harps you'll see with nylon strings. The uilleann pipes are somewhat reminiscent of the Scottish pipes (bagpipes), but differ in significant ways. I don't know how you'd play the uilleann pipes standing up because you have to attach a bellows under one arm that shuttle air into the "bladder" you hold under the other arms and you must also play keys with your fingers AND press clappers with the palm of your hand. They are lovely and nostalgic to listen to but incredibly difficult to play and therefore scarce. The bodhran is perhaps the most recognizable of the traditional Irish instruments. It is a round drum that can be held by crossbars in the back or simply held with your arm and hand. Players also often use a little stick, called a tipper, to tap out a cadence. Of course, guitars, banjos, tin flutes and whistles, fiddles and other instruments are quite common in trad music, but they are not native to Ireland.

We finally returned to Globetrotters around 10:30 pm, but we did buy a cd after the pub crawl, so that we can always take that trad music with us.